Spent time filling out missing black bugger spots in box yesterday. Thanks again #Jim#Cannon for your posting that reminded me to check. Since I never make an errant cast (yeah, right), I figured to have plenty of black buggers. Guess I must have given them all away. LOL
Wanted to tie something different so made up this “tricked out” version.
Articulated, bunny tailed, flash chenille, beaded, two-toned, fish skull, and eyed. Damn, forgot the rubber legs. Back to the bench!!!!!
Michael. #hackwith Regarding backcast issue. This is another of my DIY style fish skulls. It is made from a heart-shaped craft store bead. I do a counter sink to hold the 4mm eyes. It’s really quite light weight and doesn’t require the usual “chuck and duck” routine of heavily weighted flies. A 5 weight works well. Once the fly gets wet, it’s heavy enough to sink without extra weighting.
I’m guessing you haven’t seen my flawless casting style (sometimes I choke saying that big a lie), so I hope I’m addressing the backcast question correctly.
Hey #billtrublubug, I notice you have a down-eye hook on the back end. Any idea how that affects the articulation? I've always used straight eye hooks for the tail so I'm just curious what the down eye would do to the action, if anything. Thanks
Have used both down eyes and straight Patrick. Haven’t seen a difference in motion. Several thoughts to share though. I use braided 50 pound test Power-Pro line not the metal shanks some folks do. I find the line provides more flex. This might account for my not seeing any real difference between the hook eye types.
Also, I tied this one specifically with a down eye. Here was my rationale. Turn the fly hook points up to attach it to the tippet/leader. Since the fly looks the same from either top or bottom (or sides) you get the same profile/silhouette no matter where the fish sees the fly (from above, below or from the sides). Use a Davy knot (all I use anymore) to tie on the fly. This leaves the “down” eye pointing up. When retrieved, the fly rides hooks up. Saves snags and I think I get better hook ups. Got an opinion on any of this ??? Love to get your take.
Hey Bill, I could see the braided line connection making a difference compared to shanks or wire. I use Beadalon nylon coated wire, which doesn't move much, so the action comes from the back hook sliding up/down along the wire, whereas with a power line or braid the whole thing moves. I also flip my hooks upright using a down-eye front hook with a weighted head like a sculpin helmet. I've never tried a Davy knot, just use a no-slip loop knot.
I've also played with using a down eye hook with the weight underneath the eye. This creates a nice wobble effect and on a hard strip, the fly with often turn on its side like a dying baitfish. Check out Gunnar Brammer's "Seasoned Geezer" fly on youtube. He explains the physics behind a down eye with bottom weight. It's pretty interesting.
One other thing I do on some smaller articulated patters is cut the back hook. This gives the tail more kick since the weight is evenly distributed. I really like how it gave my smaller articulated patterns more action.
Damn, hate when my fingers don’t behave. Didn’t mean to post only that short sentence.
I think the key to the wobble rather than flip over is caused by two forces. Obviously a heavier pair of eyes would flip the fly over but in this case Brammer suggests the weight of the hook shank counter acts this tendency. He’s quite specific about both hook size and eye weight.
Newton’s First Law of Physics indicates that an object in motion remains in motion in a straight line until some other force impacts the object. During retrieve the larger force is the line strip. During pauses, it’s gravity. Eyes that outweigh the hook shank and materials on it, would flip the fly over. Keeping both the eye weight and hook shank plus materials equivalent should have no effect on the motion. Make the eyes slightly heavier and the fly should flip unless there is another force keeping it from doing so. Enter force of current and resistance to gravity forces due to materials used. Buoyancy of the materials could aid in the resistance to flip over. In a liquid medium, you can keep things afloat by increasing surface tension. Underwater, a broad head and body would be resistant to roll over. This is becoming too technical I think.
I always appreciate others thoughts and experiences. Love to learn new things or get better explanations from others knowledge.
The Geezer fly is a cool looking imitation. Thanks for clueing me in on it.
Here’s another couple of thoughts from a wandering mind. Do you use a loop to connect the two parts of your articulated flies? I found the braided line to be superior to everything else I’ve tried not just for its flexibility, but also because it is strong and can be bound tightly to the other hook. I use a single strand of power-pro to make my connections, not a loop from one section to the other.
Next thought. My personal experience says that crippled, dying minnows (easy prey, strike inducing ?) actually roll over (flip) not wobble. What have you seen in this regard Patrick?
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